Looking for a foodie vacation in northern Italy? Here’s why La Subida in Friuli Venezia Giulia is the perfect option!
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The lockdowns of the past year has still meant that at times, we can explore within our region. So we’ve opted for destinations where we can stay secluded while still exploring!
Back in December, we headed to northeastern Italy for a weekend foodie vacation at La Subida, just outside Cormons. Cormons and the surrounding area is Friuli Venezia Giulia’s wine region and full of great food & wine!
La Subida’s Guest Houses
La Subida is a great little spot tucked away in the Friulian foothills. To call it a B&B doesn’t quite cover it – it’s a perfect spot for a weekend escape, to relax and truly vacate responsibilities of everyday life.
Picture a series of guest houses sit nestled on the edge of the forest. They create that exclusive sense of privacy while still offering all the amenities you in a weekend getaway.
The guest houses and rooms hit that perfect blend of rustic yet luxurious, with a bathtub in every room and ultra-comfortable bed. It would be a great spot for a small group to share one guest house for a winery weekend with friends.
The only thing to note on the front end: there’s no wifi in rooms and we had very little cell coverage. Which isn’t a bad thing! It was great to truly disconnect for a weekend. But probably better to know this going in rather than be surprised if you hadn’t downloaded your kindle book.
Amenities at La Subida
La Subida is family-run at its best. The matriarch will greet you with a smile at every meal, and the youngest generation will probably sneak through at some point to ask mamma a question. You may spot their Weimaraners snoozing behind the counter after their morning walks.
It’s the kind of spot that has enough amenities to keep you entertained but still allow you to relax and unwind. There’s a pool, stable, spa, and playground for the kids, or you can rent Vespas to do some exploring! They also make their own vinegar on the property and offer tours, tastings, and sales.
The area has several trails into the hills leading to gorgeous little chapels and vineyards. You can also take one into Cormons if you want to check out the town without driving.
Trattoria al Cacciatore
The number one reason to stay here is actually the food. La Subida has a Michelin star restaurant, and dinner here was absolutely the best part of the weekend.
The meal can get pricey, but this is exactly the type of place to splurge. They have a reasonably-priced a la carte menu, but you should definitely spring for the tasting menu: eight courses of family recipes made elegant, using local ingredients.
I say eight courses because that’s what they list on the menu, but I think it was more like 10 or 11 with all the amuse-bouche and additional bites along the way.
Obviously, such an elegant tasting menu really needs the wine pairings, which are all locally sourced as well. The sommelier told us personal details about each winery as he served, including the ways he sees their wine philosophies in their bottles. Honestly, does it get much more local than that?
What I loved most has to be the adventurous flavor combinations that always landed perfectly. Tortello (larger tortellini) with chocolate sauce? Sounds bizarre, but it was excellent! Sort of an Italian-style mole. A pasta dish combining parmesan, sausage, and pomegranate? My favorite course of the day!
There were multiple dishes per Italian course. Antipasti included deer tartare and artichoke salad dishes. Secondi dishes included a guinea fowl with raspberry sauce and deer tenderloin topped with local trout roe.
The party didn’t end there – there was plenty of dessert to round out the meal. House specialties, all, but my favorite had to be the red wine-poached pears with pear sorbet.
If you’re curious, the menu was written entirely in Italian but several of the staff speak excellent English. They were also patient with me when I spoke my kindergarten Italian, so wherever you are language-wise, you’ll be just fine!
It feels almost silly to talk about a different meal after that glorious one, but their breakfast was also excellent. A true Italian breakfast with a mix of meats, cheeses, & bread, along with eggs, fruit, yogurt and granola. And great espresso drinks, obviously! The breakfast seems a bit expensive in my opinion, but it is excellent and a perfect finish to a luxurious foodie vacation.
La Subida is a perfect relaxing getaway: beautiful, comfortable, and full of delicious food!